Always be sure that all are loose as you do all four one at a time.
Model a brake rod adjustment.
The brakes are controlled by rods that connect the front and rear wheels giving you the basic braking system.
Turns out my push rod needed adjusted.
The fifteen degrees is ideal but not set in stone as all cars have some different wear and characteristics.
If the brakes are giving you a lot of trouble in your model a and when are they not it may be time to adjust them.
Do the brake shoe to drum tightening before attaching the brake rod.
Pedal is more firm now and brakes much better.
Release hand brake lever.
The angle is set with the actuating rod or pills to take up slack.
530 next replace the rod inserting it through hole b in center cross member and connecting the rod to the cross shaft center lever through upper hole c in lever.
Turn the adjusting wedge at each brake not the pull rod until the brake drags then back off the wedge 2 or 3 notches or just enough to allow the wheels to revolve without drag.
See that wheels revolve freely.
You will need to disconnect all service brake rods where the adjustment is made.
My brake pedal was super soft after a brake booster replacement.
Place pin in clevis one at a time and adjust until pin snaps over brake arm.
Remove rod a 1853 that connects emergency brake lever to cross shaft center lever.
The fifteen are after the slop is taken up turn the brake rod eye so the pin just slips in.
Front at the wheels and back at the cross shaft.
Never adjust for wear by shortening the pull rods.
The 1931 model a ford is a classic but like many classic cars owning one means investing substantial time and money into maintenance and repairs.
This video will show you how to do just that.
Make all adjustments with brakes cold.
Another good brake trick is to balance your brake rods to length.